Quilting with Leather Part 2: Tools

Jan 283 min read

All the tools you need, and some you should avoid, to get you started quilting with upcycled leather.

In part 1 we talked about why you should quilt with leather, how to source it sustainably and what weights to look for. In part 2 we are going to talk about all the tools you need to get started quilting with leather and what you should avoid.

I'm about to recommend some slightly unconventional tools for quilting with leather. I'm not saying these are the official tools you need to use, or this is the right way to do these things, I'm just sharing my way and the things that have worked for me.

So, watch the video or read below to learn more:

Tools to get you started Quilting with Leather

Sharp Scissors or Rotary Cutter: I always recommend using sharp tools (whether or not I do this myself is another story). But sharp scissors are extra important when working with leather. Unlike fabric, leather doesn't fray, but a dull blade will leave jagged edges that are hard to work with. A rotary cutter is also great, just make sure the blade is fresh and sharp.
Clips Instead of Pins: one of the challenges to sewing clothes with leather is you can't use pins because they leave permanent holes. Pins aren't as necessary in quilting, but I do recommend something to help hold your leather in place when you are piecing. I love using sewing clips, which are possible find at Creative Reuse Centers. If you don’t have those, binder clips work as well. Just be sure they aren’t too strong, or they might leave indentations on the leather.
Choosing the Right Needles: I try to avoid single-purpose tools, so I don’t usually buy specialized leather needles. Instead, I look for sharp, thin needles that can still punch through leather cleanly. Microtex needles are a great option because they have a super fine point. If those aren’t available, a new, sharp Universal needle can often do the trick. Just be aware that if the leather is too thick, needles may break, so always test on a scrap piece first!
Thread Matters: Did you know that cotton thread can degrade over time when exposed to the natural oils and tannins in leather? That’s why most people recommend polyester or nylon thread for sewing with leather. My favorite polyester thread is Mettler’s Metrosene—it’s strong, smooth, and I often find it secondhand. For heavier stitching, like topstitching or bag-making, I also love Madeira’s Aerofil 35 denim thread.
For hand quilting, however, I refuse to use poly or nylon thread. I prefer the look and feel of natural fiber embroidery thread, even though it may break down over time. To me, the aesthetic and texture are worth it, and hand quilting can be easily repaired down the line.
Helpful Sewing Machine Feet: If you plan to sew a lot of leather, investing in a Teflon presser foot can be a game changer. The Teflon coating helps the foot glide over the leather instead of sticking. Another great tool no matter what fabric you are quilting is a walking foot, which keeps thicker materials moving evenly through the machine and prevents slipping. These can make a huge difference when working with multiple layers or bulky seams.
Pressing Leather the Right Way: Yes, you can iron leather—but you need to be extra careful. Never use steam or spray water on it, as this can cause staining or warping. Always use a press cloth as a protective barrier between the iron and the leather. To flatten seams, use a hardwood tailor’s clapper (or hammer, but be careful) and bang the seam in place. Start lighter and then begin hitting it with more weight once you are comfortable.
Fusible Interfacing for Lightweight Leather: If you’re working with a super lightweight leather that needs more structure, fusible interfacing can be a great option. Just remember to use a low heat setting and a press cloth to avoid damaging the leather. This will also help if the leather is getting skewed as you sew it.
Glue will be your best friend: Since you can't use pins, glue is another great alternative for holding pieces in place before sewing. But it can also be used to keep seams open, keep applique in place, and a bunch of other things. Regular fabric glue works well, but even a basic Elmer’s glue stick will work.